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For a long while we have been considering a recipe which truly represents the cuisine of the Liguria Ponente, a recipe which satisfies two indelible characteristics: the sparseness of the raw materials and ‘the inspiration which transforms such a limitation into something wonderfully unique’. It then follows that the preparation is easy and straightforward and based on ingredients readily available anywhere. The choice, and we think somewhat provocatively, is “Pan e pumata” also known as “Bistecca sanremasca” or “Sanremo Steak”. The preparation of this dish has always been popular and widespread, even during the leanest of years.

People may ask what can be so satisfying about placing tomatoes between two pieces of bread, but it is this humble honesty that makes the final result so marvellous.

The “Pan e pumata” is decidedly west Ligurian, although its value didn’t escape the attention of people such as Domenico Scarlatti, the great musician.

Originally from Naples, an indulger of good food and wine, he turned up in many of the courts of Italy, Spain and Portugal and didn’t hesitate to mention the Neopolitan “pagnottelle”, which is also filled with tomatoes.

ingredients

32 tomatoes, bread, garlic, olive oil, basil, sea salt.

making it

For two people, take a large flat rustic loaf of bread, such as those which preserve well, and cut it horizontally in two.

In the same way, horizontally cut a pair of ripe sweet summer tomatoes.

Bathe the two bread halves in a little extra virgin olive oil and fry them with a touch of garlic.

Next, take the tomato halves and squash them with your fingers over the soft part of one of the pieces of bread, in such a way as the tomato breaks up into large pieces and sheds some of its water.

Sprinkle a pinch of large salt granules over the bread together with a little more oil and a fresh young basil leaf.

The large salt grains will melt a little, and the sour taste forms a pleasant contrast with the sweet tomatoes.

Place the other bread half on top and press down lightly.

Cut into two and eat immediately

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